POWER OF BEAUTY: A Journey Through Shifting Ideals
Written by: Marina Townsend
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When I think of beauty, I think of my family, friends, favourite artists, but first, I think of the beauty I see in my reflection and the beauty I hold internally.
When I feel the most beautiful, what, who makes me recognise the beauty I carry and what or who may make me feel less beautiful. When I set out to write this article it was simply looking at the beauty standards of the 19th century and what is considered beautiful in the 20th century; that is still what you will read but let me start by telling you the most important revelation, one I already knew but was reminded of today.
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For my dissertation topic which i did over 20 years ago now was the evolution of beauty in Vogue. I spent hours in the British library going through the covers of Vogue magazines from the early 1900’s up until 1999 and it was clear that I, in the opinion of Vogue, was not a beauty standard. As I researched the beauty standards of the last century two things were apparent; Firstly, male beauty standards were relatively unobtrusive and less earnestly considered. While such standards existed—centred around slim yet toned or bodybuilder physiques—they were not universally anticipated among everyday men. Secondly, beauty standards never included black women, their allure overlooked and undervalued.
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Explanations detailing the beauty standards of each era were consistently written about white women; anything other than that would require specifically searching for references to black women.
This is undoubtedly a fact well known, but it persists, profoundly impacting the self-perception of black women.
The beauty ideals of the 1920s stood in stark contrast to today's norms; the era celebrated an androgynous aesthetic, with women striving to flatten their chests and appear less curvaceous. Dark lips, short hair, thin eyebrows, and svelte figures were the trend.
Moving on to the 1950s, we find beauty standards more akin to what we recognize today. The '50s championed the hourglass silhouette, a petite waist, hips, and bust of nearly equal proportions. The emergence of Playboy introduced the iconic bunnies as epitomes of that era's beauty. Unlike the '20s, the '50s celebrated a softer femininity marked by loose curls, vibrant lipstick, and rosy cheeks. Although it embraced some toxic body ideals, it also conveyed healthier notions of feminine beauty.
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The 1970s ushered in a blend of curvaceous and straight figures, maintaining the essence of the "pretty, feminine girl" era. Long, flowing hair and subdued natural makeup defined daily looks, while disco nights and groupie aesthetics called for vibrant eyeshadow and lip colour. The 1980s witnessed minimal transformation, save for an influx of colourful makeup and the fitness craze, evoking supermodel and bodybuilder vibes.
Now we enter the 90’s, my favourite era but i realised that, that excitement comes from a cultured side opposed to what society was dictating as beauty. When you look at what the beauty standard was it will tell you thin, protruding bones, unhealthy and braless.
Now I remember that being skinny was definitely the thing, the flatter your bottom was the better and I even remember being told regularly that my stomach was con-caved, which I took as a massive compliment.
Models, especially in the '90s, epitomised beauty, whether universally relatable or not. Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and Cindy Crawford represented that era, each stunning in her own right but hardly mirroring an "ordinary" girl.
Yet for me, beauty ideals resonated more with figures like Aaliyah, TLC, and Brandy—slender but not emaciated, donning minimal makeup that mirrored the women in my everyday life.
Vogue was and still is one the most famous and respected publications worldwide and the first black woman to grace the British Vogue cover and be recognised as a part of the beauty standards was Donyale luna in 1966, she was described as an extraordinary girl with bite and a great personality which was ultimately the reason she landed the cover.
American Vogue featured Beverly Ann Johnson on their cover in 1974 and Vogue Netherlands late in their inclusivity journey covered Kinee Diouf just 11 years ago in 2013.
Undoubtedly, beauty extends beyond skin deep. Even if we behold a visually striking individual, ignorance, arrogance, negativity, or rudeness renders them unappealing. However, global perceptions of beauty do impact initial interactions, reminding us that countless women across backgrounds share a common experience of feeling unworthy in strangers' eyes—a paradoxical blend of insignificance and importance.
The presentation and perception of beauty wield tremendous influence, both positively and negatively. Why do we have beauty standards? Who determines these standards?
Today beauty is a lot more inclusive and we see different faces gracing the covers of magazines that hold such weight and big brands choosing out of their norm even if it is to simply appear more diverse.
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The beauty trends of 2024 is taking it back to the 60's, Aquamarine make-up is apparently back! Today, people are markedly more attuned to what truly matters, sidelining the superficial discourse on beauty. We've witnessed the rise and fall of silicon-enhanced aesthetics, as natural looks regain favour. Ultimately, the power to define beauty rests with you; your values and principles shape your perception of beauty. We're not here to be judged by the world, only by our Creator. Therefore, let your personal standards guide your life, independent of external expectations..
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